: in 2005, when i was visiting syria, i went to the ruins of quneitra, the small bit of the golan region that was still controlled by syria. at one point i looked up at the heights looming above us and thought i saw movement on one of the ridges. "what's that?" i asked my guide. "those are tourists, israeli tourists. they are watching us." he replied. when i went to israel, i was determined to find that ridge. and here it is. the view of the mountain i am standing on is here. the lookout is on the ridge below all the antennas that are at the top of the mountain.
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