фото: Masa about to tackle with a new variation

Masa Sakano • 30-01-2014  

Описание: During Masa’s lead of this 55-metre crux pitch. The chimney behind (left) the tear-drop shape rock (lower-left in the photo) is the infamous chimney, the supposed crux of this Piggott’s Route (aka Central Buttress). The route follows the continuation groove above. Masa thought the groove to the right, at the bottom of which he is standing in the photo, was the line, and so went for it. It turned out to be absolute nails and Masa’s personal hardest winter-climb to date. Indeed it looks a lot steeper in this photo… The fact he dropped one of his axes immediately after he had made the crux hooking, which meant he had to climb that require the still hard moves (tech 5/6) with one axe, added a good deal of spice to the experience. It is, as far as Andy Nisbet can tell, the new variation line, graded VII 8 (easier for the talls). Climbed by Masa Sakano (onsight flash), Steve Towne, Rob Goodman on 30th January 2014. This photo is taken by Steve Towne, while belaying.

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